With the distinctive beats of the dhak and the sound of conch shells in the air growing louder, Bengalis from all around the world get ready to fully enjoy Durga Puja celebrations this year after a lull of two years due to the Covid-19 pandemic. While one might have heard the expression of Pujo being an emotion for all Bengalis, whether native to Kolkata or probashi (diaspora), the same can also be said for the lip-smacking bhoger khichuri (bhog khichadi). Offered in pandals, the bhog is filled with a spectacular mix of nostalgia and flavours.
The 10-day pujo officially begins with the Mahalaya, also the beginning of Devi Paksha where Goddess Durga or Parvati begins her descent from Mount Kailash where she resides with her husband Lord Shiva, to her maternal home on Earth. Maa’s homecoming is celebrated with offerings to the goddess called bhog and is served to everyone free of cost in pujo pandals, fulfilling its dual role both as an offering to the goddess and serving the community.
This year, Durga Puja festivities will begin on the sixth day (maha Shashti) on October 1 and will end on October 5 with Maha Dasami.
So what is a traditional bhog?
While many community pujo or parar pujo opt for mishti pulao, luchi, alur dum and mishti, pandals majorly opt for the traditional bhoger khichudi. Purely vegetarian, meaning made without garlic or onions, the khichudi is made with gobindobhog rice, moong dal, and vegetables. The khichudi is accompanied with labra, a mixed vegetable dish made with paach phoron (Bengali five spice mix); beguni (brinjal dipped in thick and spiced chickpea flour batter) or bhaaja (mishti kumro (pumpkin), fulkopi (cauliflower) or potol (parbal) fry), chutney (usually tomato) and payesh (kheer).
Bhog is an integral part of the Durga Puja celebrations for many office goers as well with many rushing to their nearest pandals on lunch breaks. The queues for the bhog, usually long and filled with some (not many) squabbles about ‘cutting’ the lines, are also filled with an excitement palpable in the air. Some pandal organisers either prepare tables, where volunteers serve the bhog in a synchronized assembly line fashion, offering numerous refills to all requests for an extra bhaja or servings of kheer. Others provide only the bhog, meaning devotees make their own arrangements to sit in nearby chairs inside the pandal kept for cultural events or fill them in containers to take back home.
However, in bonedi baari pujos, meaning pujo held in traditional homes in Kolkata, unique flavours for the bhog can be . The famous Shovabazaar Rajbari’s bhog includes large-sized white motichoor ladoos while Ghosh Bari gives sandalwood-laced kheer. At the 250-year-old Baishnab Das Mullick’s puja, anna bhog (rice-based bhog) is made with salt and turmeric powder and is made by cooks who have been with the family for generations.
In the Sabarna Roy Choudhury Atchala Durga Puja, one of the oldest pujos, the bhog comprises of ghee bhaat, khichuri, basanti pulao with dry fruits, fried vegetables with different kinds of curries, fish dishes, bori (dried lentil balls), payesh, and an array of Bengali sweets. Panta bhaat (soaked, fermented rice), khesari daal, stir-fried kochu saag (taro leaves), a variety of fish dishes, and chutney made with chalta (elephant apple) are also usually available on Navami.
The list of bhog offered in pandals vary in different places and in some places, goat meat cooked without onions or garlic are offered on Navami. In some other places, the much-loved fish hilsa is offered along with parathas as bhog.
The list must have left you drooling. If yes, head to your nearest puja pandal to relish the bhog.
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