Although I am not from Bengal (not even somewhere close) but my relationship to this former fishing village that was Kolkata has been rather curious ...Kolkata and its Bhadraloks have always intrigued me. Please do not confuse this with the archetypal 'dhuti-clad Bengali men' of two hundred years before whom the British initially befriended to act asinterpreters. And they effectively used their position of power to exploit their way to establish the 'Bunedi' (euphemism for rich, influential Bengali families often understood as a symbol of classiness) families of Bengal.
For me the term holds value as a deterrent. A deterrent against immorality (I have serious reservations about 'morality' which has gone to become more gaping than anything since someone coined it).
But we live in interesting times, the lessons of morality and ideal bhadrolok conduct notwithstanding Kolkata has been accommodating.
Sudder Street still retains that hippie flavor. The hangout for low budgeted phirangs looking for flavor of India and finding it right there in the narrow lanes around their lodges. Lapierre's urchins, clandestine marijuana joints, the muslim darzee. Drainpipes have given way to skin tight jeans and the Anglo offshoots carry them off with gusto. Nothing did change really.
The Writers building and its Bangali babus insiting on proper 'Dokument'. The Armenian college and its rugby team. Drive northwards past 'Shonagachi' the largest concentration of brothels in India's east for the last one hundred years or so (This did not thrive on Bhadrolok morality I am sure).
Trincas, Someplace else and Tantra. Found them buzzing. Oxford book shop still doesn't have a toilet. They still ask you to use Park Hotel's rest room where the bearded gatekeeper invariably stops while you juggle with bladder control.
And a brand new KFC in Saltlake's city center. They had it much before Delhi. The fly over at esplanade has eased traffic. I am told that some fumbling folks still get occasionally run over by Trams that traverse the city's roads at 15 KMPH. .
OK. I need to get a life! And Kolkata has it for sure.
first published:February 25, 2006, 11:48 ISTlast updated:February 25, 2006, 11:48 IST
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I am still reeling under the effect of Calcutta..Oops Kolkata. It was absolutely amazing this time, especially for a 'bangali baccha' like 'yours truly' who has grown on up on a staple dose of 'bhadralok culture'.
Although I am not from Bengal (not even somewhere close) but my relationship to this former fishing village that was Kolkata has been rather curious ...Kolkata and its Bhadraloks have always intrigued me. Please do not confuse this with the archetypal 'dhuti-clad Bengali men' of two hundred years before whom the British initially befriended to act asinterpreters. And they effectively used their position of power to exploit their way to establish the 'Bunedi' (euphemism for rich, influential Bengali families often understood as a symbol of classiness) families of Bengal.
For me the term holds value as a deterrent. A deterrent against immorality (I have serious reservations about 'morality' which has gone to become more gaping than anything since someone coined it).
But we live in interesting times, the lessons of morality and ideal bhadrolok conduct notwithstanding Kolkata has been accommodating.
Sudder Street still retains that hippie flavor. The hangout for low budgeted phirangs looking for flavor of India and finding it right there in the narrow lanes around their lodges. Lapierre's urchins, clandestine marijuana joints, the muslim darzee. Drainpipes have given way to skin tight jeans and the Anglo offshoots carry them off with gusto. Nothing did change really.
The Writers building and its Bangali babus insiting on proper 'Dokument'. The Armenian college and its rugby team. Drive northwards past 'Shonagachi' the largest concentration of brothels in India's east for the last one hundred years or so (This did not thrive on Bhadrolok morality I am sure).
Trincas, Someplace else and Tantra. Found them buzzing. Oxford book shop still doesn't have a toilet. They still ask you to use Park Hotel's rest room where the bearded gatekeeper invariably stops while you juggle with bladder control.
And a brand new KFC in Saltlake's city center. They had it much before Delhi. The fly over at esplanade has eased traffic. I am told that some fumbling folks still get occasionally run over by Trams that traverse the city's roads at 15 KMPH. .
OK. I need to get a life! And Kolkata has it for sure.
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