How to Set Up a Ferret Cage

Picking the Right Ferret Cage

Select a cage that’s at least 3 × 2 × 2 ft (91 × 61 × 61 cm) for 1 ferret. Ferrets are active animals that require a lot of room for play and exercise, not to mention eating and sleeping. For each additional ferret you plan to keep, add at least 6 in (15 cm) to each dimension. For instance, 2 ferrets should have a cage that’s at least 42 in (110 cm) long, 26 in (66 cm) wide, and 26 in (66 cm) tall. Keep in mind that this is the minimum cage size and bigger is better. If your ferret won’t be able to spend 4 hours per day outside the cage (as is highly recommended), go for as big of a cage as possible.

Make sure the cage's bar spacing is designed for ferrets. For the health and safety of your pet, buy a cage that is designed specifically for ferrets. First and foremost, the cage must have bars that are spaced 1 in (2.5 cm) or less apart. If the bars are any wider, your ferret may be able to squeeze through them and escape.

Choose a cage with a strong door latch, and always use it. The cage door should have a sturdy latching mechanism that you can easily secure. If the door doesn’t have a strong latch, the ferret may be able to push or pull the door open and escape. Remember that even the sturdiest latch is useless if you don't actually secure it in place! Make sure you latch the door every time you close it. Some people stick a binder clip over the door and frame wires to add an additional latching mechanism.

Pick out a cage with a solid, comfortable floor. Avoid cages with wire floors, since these are uncomfortable for ferrets to walk on and may permit their feet to get caught between the wires. Look for a cage with a solid pan or sturdy carpeting covering the floor. Many ferret cages have removable floor pans, which can make cleanup much easier.

Choose a cage with at least 2-3 vertical levels for your ferret to use. Each level should have one or more ramps leading up to it so that your ferret can easily run from level to level. Running around keeps ferrets occupied and gives them needed exercise. If you have 2 or more ferrets, look for a cage with at least 4 levels. The elevated platforms should have solid flooring as well.

Choosing a Location for the Cage

Put the cage in a semi-active location in your house. Ferrets like attention when they’re awake, so don’t tuck the cage away in a back room where nobody goes. However, they also sleep a lot, so don’t place it in a very loud or hectic area. A den or home office might make a good spot, for instance.

Ensure lots of fresh air ventilation in the cage spot. Most indoor locations with a functioning air conditioning or heating system should suffice. Depending on the outside weather, you can also crack open a nearby window. The more fresh air ventilation the location gets, the better. Don’t stick the cage in a small room with the door closed.

Make sure the location remains between 50 and 75 °F (10 and 24 °C). Ferrets are sensitive to temperatures that are too hot or cold, so maintain a consistent temperature range in the cage location. Most spots in an average home should suffice, but provide supplemental cooling or heat if necessary. Do not, for instance, keep the ferret cage in a basement or garage where the temperature might go above or below the recommended range. The ferret could become ill or even die.

Keep the cage out of direct sunlight, especially in warm weather. Ferrets are very sensitive to temperatures above 75 °F (24 °C), and a sunny indoor location can easily rise above that level. Place the cage near a window if you're using it for ventilation, but make sure the sun doesn't shine directly into the cage. If your ferret has been in the sun and seems lethargic or ill, it may be suffering from heat stroke. Call your vet right away.

Accessorizing the Cage

Choose a spot in the cage for a sturdy food dish. Identify a spot on any of the levels to serve as the feeding area. Ferrets like to push and lift their food dishes (which leads to spills), so choose a heavy ceramic dish or, even better, a food dish that latches to the cage bars. Check pet retailers for latching food dishes designed specifically for ferrets.

Attach multiple water bottles to the cage bars. A ferret requires a constant supply of fresh water, and they can drink quite a lot when they’re running around. By using 2 bottles, you’ll reduce the chances of them running out of water. Buy bottles that are designed for ferrets and that latch securely to the cage bars. Place the bottles in different spots on different levels—one near the food dish, for instance, and the other on a separate level. Plan to check the bottles regularly and refill them as needed.

Provide bedding or a hammock for your ferret to sleep in. Buy a ferret bed or create a bed out of an old T-shirt during warmer weather. If it gets chilly where you live, switch out the T-shirt for fleece blanket or sweatshirt scraps during winter. You can also find ferret hammocks at pet stores and online, and many ferrets really enjoy these. However, not every ferret is a fan of hammocks. You might want to set up both a hammock and a bed to see which one your ferret prefers—or just keep them both set up. Give your ferret a hide or shelter so it can burrow when it feels anxious or frightened. Provide at least as many bedding spots as there are ferrets in the cage.

Add a latch-secured litter pan for each ferret in the cage. Buy a ferret litter pan that latches to the cage so your ferret doesn’t overturn it. Fill the pan with 1 in (2.5 cm) of a wood- or paper-based litter. Don’t use cat litter or other clumping or scented litters—these can cause breathing problems or be a choking hazard. Ferrets can be territorial about their litter boxes, so keep it in the same spot and provide a pan for each ferret in the cage. If you have 2 ferrets, for instance, give each a litter pan in opposite corners. Plan to clean the litter pan daily.

Add lots of hard plastic toys to keep the ferret occupied. Buy hard plastic balls, tubes, and other sturdy toys designed for ferrets. Avoid toys that are made of fabric or thin plastic, since a ferret can easily chew these apart and create a potential choking hazard. Even if you buy sturdy plastic toys, check them regularly and replace them if they are damaged. It may be a good idea to replace toys from time to time anyway, in order to keep your ferret interested. Try using a shoebox with a ferret-sized hole for a cheap alternative to plastic tunnels. Stocking the cage with toys is not a replacement for spending time with your ferret. You should spend 2 hours, at minimum, of every day being actively engaged with your ferret.

Cleaning the Cage

Do a quick cleanup of the cage and accessories every day. Ferrets require a clean environment for their health and safety. Take a few minutes every day to do some basic cleaning of their habitat. Wash the food dish with mild soap and clean water, and scrub out the water bottles with a bottle brush. Scoop out any deposits in the litter, and change the litter if it’s smelly or getting low. Wipe down the flooring (on all levels) with mild disinfecting wipes. Also wipe up any spills or urine/feces outside the cage.

Clean the cage more thoroughly once a week. Some ferrets are messier than others, so you may have to move to a twice weekly cleaning schedule. Basically, if the cage looks or smells like it needs to be cleaned, clean it—but clean it at least once a week regardless. Place your ferret in the ferret-proof room you’ve set up, or put it in a carrier cage designed for ferrets. Remove everything from the cage, discard litter, food scraps, and other trash, and wash bowls, toys, etc. with mild soap and clean water. Wash down the cage floor and bars with a mild detergent, then use a pet-safe disinfectant spray or wipes. Wipe away any excess disinfectant. Clean any fabric items in your washing machine, using a mild detergent.

Do a deep-cleaning of the cage at least once a month. You’ll need to house the ferret somewhere else for at least 24 hours during this deep-cleaning. Keep them in a ferret-proof room as much as possible, and put them in a ferret-approved carrier or alternate cage otherwise. Empty out the cage and do a typical weekly cleaning for removable items. Disassemble the cage so you can get into every crevice. Scrub down every surface of the cage with a bleach-based cleanser, or mix your own solution of 1 part bleach to 32 parts water. Take the cage parts outside, if possible, and spray them down with a hose or, better yet, a power washer. If this isn’t possible, rinse them very thoroughly in your tub. Let the cage dry for 24 hours before reassembling it.