New Delhi: The organisers may have let down India in the run up to the Games, but ultimately its people did not. The shame and the fear of a national disaster - all that was put behind on Sunday night. India pulled it off, even if just. It has cost us billions, but what a opening show we put up.
It was with doubt in the heart that I began the journey to the opening ceremony.
And as I neared the stadium, I noticed the people. Out in great strength, wearing their Sunday best, they trooped through the slush, mud and muck left behind by cheating contractors, poorly paid workmen and corrupt overseers.
Forget the aam-aadmi, the world trooped in gamely-diplomats of a hundred nations in their snazzy suits, with their swish partners in town. Only they got stuck in a sea of people.
First the coats came off, then the ties, then the handkerchiefs to mop sweaty, dusty brows. Their ladies stepped gingerly to the entry checkpoint-the first and the toughest. All was well, or so it seemed, till it became clear that the Indian and foreigner alike had once again been betrayed by the system. Just one small two-metre opening was left open for almost 10,000 people to pass through.
The shouts became hoarse, people cussed, a dozen languages cursed - I picked up Russian, an African dialect and our very own Punjabi. Then the screams started-of dainty women getting crushed and frightened children. I lifted my son above the crowd, even as my screams added to the din. All seemed lost, till some blessed soul threw open the gates and saved us all. Nothing unusual for us Indians-or at least those of us who have been brave enough in the pre-PVR days of buying movie tickets in cinema halls. But, think of the visitors! Every worst story they had heard of India was coming true in front of their eyes.
The first check point went off, till the second came in sight. This was to be the one where the tickets were to be scanned. The lady constable just stepped aside to let everyone pass through. In front of me was a dazed, sweaty and lost looking gentleman-known more for his deadly driving of a BMW many winter nights ago.
The security check done, the throngs burst in. How I wish someone in the OC had sought out some experienced hands from the Allahabad or Nasik administration. Those guys handle millions at the Kumbh Melas and as the world knows-they are very good at it. In contrast, the refurbished Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium has a peak capacity of 65,000 and it did not reach that tonight.
Another long walk, up a ramp and finally inside the stadium itself. Cheap, cramped bucket seats in sections where every seat costs Rs 25,000. Ugly patches of untreated cement, toilets that were closed and food stalls that ran out of food, although there was a free public Wi-Fi network. If this is what took Rs 956 crore to build, the DDA and Jaipal Reddy must answer the people.
There will be more answers to be had-at least if the aam-aadmi has his way. I overheard people ask each other-is this what Rs 70,000 crore can do? Yes, we live in an India of high-inflation, but isn't this just too much?
India will perhaps forget the run-up to these Games. We may also forget the sheer incompetence and corruption of 22 government agencies that were tasked with managing 41 Games sites. We may also forgive this government for shaming this nation of proud, hard working and generally nice and decent people.
What will, however, never be forgotten is the way every Indian stood tall and proud when the national anthem rang loud and clear.
And that is what made the two-hour journey to Ground Zero special. The dazzle of lasers, the fireworks and the helium balloon. The lights, the show and the enthusiasm of the school children. The highlight of the show-the drums of India and the young boy playing the tabla. All was forgotten in those moments.
The crowd cheered for every politician who walked in, but booed when Suresh Kalmadi stood up to make his speech. Prince Charles looked amused but Kalmadi continued. And the crowds got even more tired and hostile-something that the public broadcaster may have blanked out. The boos got louder and Kalmadi kept hammering away.
The loudest cheer was reserved for the Indian delegation when they walked in, but so was a great cheer given to the Pakistan and Bangladesh teams. As the cheers rang, I looked around to see a sea of smiling faces. There was none of the sub-continents famous rivalry on display.
And so it went till Prince Charles was handed the baton and stood to read the Queen's message. He called the opening ceremony "splendid". Was this an apt description? Does it merit comparison with the Beijing Olympics? Could India have done better? Did the floating helium balloon with hanging puppets make the show or did the children of India save the day? Was this nothing more than a Republic Day ceremony, minus the military muscle but with Tri-Services bands? Was this the very best that the Indian taxpayer could afford? Or was it just the thing we needed to do-showcase the great diversity of this amazing nation and its people.
Prince Charles declared the Games open and President Pratibha Patil once again reminded us of our diversity and rich heritage, even as she too declared them open and also asked for them to begin.
The crowds were getting a bit restive. The magic seemed to have waned or so I thought till the stage opened up to lift shiny curtains. Out came a few hundred dancers.
And then the magic began all again. This was like a night never seen before. Bollywood and the Kingdom of Dreams came together in a medley like never before. Out came a steam engine, taking us through the journey of India. The crowds went delirious and wild. Finally, the engine had started to chug along. It was as if the entire nation was running late but just managed to catch the train!
We laughed and clapped, merry as children, knowing that finally it had all fallen in place. So what if it took an alien ship amidst a sea of people to mirror our soul. India came through. The spirit of its people triumphed, the ghosts of the past lay slain. And as AS Rehman belted out his jazzed up Games anthem-the fireworks were the heralds of an early Diwali for this nation in constant search of its identity.
Jai Ho!
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