Tuning Basics
Tune it like a violin. A mandolin is traditionally tuned G-D-A-E, from low to high, with each pair of strings tuned to the same tone. In other words, the instrument is tuned G-G-D-D-A-A-E-E, taking into consideration each individual string. When you're holding the mandolin correctly, the highest string pair (E) should be the closest to the floor. If you play guitar, it can also be helpful to think of it as the lowest four guitar strings (E-A-D-G), but in reverse. That can also help you get familiar with the fingerings when you're first getting started on the instrument.
Locate the correct tuners for each string. On most mandolins, the tuners for both G strings and both D strings will be on the side of the headstock closest to you, while the tuners for both A strings and E strings will be on the side of the headstock closest to the floor, in order. As you tune, you generally want to tune in that clockwise pattern on the tuners, around the headstock, working your way down the instrument and higher in pitch.
Tune each string individually and both strings together. What makes tuning a mandolin more difficult than tuning a violin, of course, is that there are 8 strings instead of 4, meaning that you have to be precise or the instrument will be out of tune. It can be difficult to know which string is out of tune when you're striking them both in unison. Use "rest strokes" (in which you dampen each string with the pick after playing) to isolate each note individually as you're tuning. This will get a clearer tone on the electronic tuner, or whatever other tuning method you're using.
Tune up instead of tuning down. As with any stringed instrument, you generally want to tune from flat to sharp, tuning the string up in pitch, rather than down from a higher note to the correct tone. This is because you want to settle the tension in the string toward the gear, not away from it. When you tune down, you risk letting the tension slip on the tuning gear as you play, making the string will go flat. This is especially true with new strings.
Use fresh strings. Worn out or rusty strings will go out of the tune more easily and bedevil your fingers as you're learning. Make sure you change your strings out regularly to keep your instrument in tune. You don't need to change them every night unless you're Tim O'Brien, but consider changing them every 4-6 weeks of moderate to heavy usage.
Get the tuning in the ballpark, and then fine-tune it. It can be frustrating to tune immediately after putting new strings on the mandolin, because it'll slip out after only a few minutes. After putting new strings on, each string puts lots of pounds per square inch of tension on the neck, and the wood will flex slightly. You need to account for this by getting the strings close and then letting the instrument rest for a second before fine-tuning. You'll get it in tune more quickly and more accurately this way.
Using an Electronic Tuner
Get an electric tuner of good quality. The most accurate and efficient way of tuning your mandolin is to buy an electronic tuner made for the purpose. A violin tuner or an electronic tuner made for the mandolin are both appropriate for your purposes. Chromatic tuners that clip onto the headstock of various acoustic instruments are recommended if you're going to be regularly tuning during practice sessions and gigs. You can leave it clipped onto your instrument, ready to fine-tune at a moment's notice. They can range anywhere from $10 to upward of $30. Online tuners are also available that play a tone for you to replicate, but these are somewhat less accurate methods than doing it with a tuner that picks up sound. If you're on a budget, consider downloading a free smartphone tuning app, which tend to be of fairly high quality and are either cheap or free.
Turn the tuner on and make sure it's picking up the sound. If the tuner features settings for different instruments, set it to mandolin or violin, and find a quiet room to tune in that will be free of background noise that will affect the tuner's efficacy.
Play each string individually. Tighten the corresponding tuner until you get the string relatively close. It doesn't have to be exact yet, because you're going to go back through after you've done a pass. Continue tuning each of the strings, tightening the tuning peg up and getting the tension close, watching the tuner closely. Go back through and do another pass, fine-tuning each string as closely as possible. Watch the tuner for cues. Most give you an indication of whether or not you're sharp or flat, and most turn green or blink when you're right on the money.
Use your eyes and your ears. Now go back through the strings again and play each double set to make sure it sounds right. Pluck both G strings and listen. It can be tempting to get too attached to your tuner, but you've got to use your ears too. They're not perfect, and each instrument has its own quirks and habits. Listen closely to the doubled strings to see if it needs further adjustment.
Using Alternate Methods and Tunings
Learn to tune the mandolin to itself. While it's important to get each note in tune in terms of pitch, it's also not necessary unless you want to play with other people. You also need to tune the instrument to itself, to make sure you can play and practice in a way that sounds good. You may not always have a tuner handy, so it's an important skill to learn. Practice checking your harmonics and intervals by playing notes at the 12th fret to make sure it's in key in the higher octaves. Check and double check.
Use the seventh fret. Adjust both E strings until they're in tune with each other, then fret the A string at the 7th fret and make that string sound the same as the 1st string played “open” or non-fretted. Keep moving down the neck, doing the same thing with the other strings.
Tune to another instrument. Use an in-tune piano, guitar, or banjo to tune to. Have your playing partner play each note individually (GDAE--you've got to memorize those!) and take your time getting it in tune. This is an important skill to develop in your ear training, helping you to recognize microtones and sharp and flat sounds. You'll be a better player if you can recognize when you're in and out of tune with your ear.
Learn some alternate tunings to open up your repertoire. The only difference between a violin and a fiddle is the way that it's tuned, in most cases. Most mandolin players learn to play the instrument by tuning it to GDAE, but that doesn't mean you need to always play it. Some American folk musicians even call it "Eye-talian" tuning to suggest that it's fancy and formal. Learn some alternate tunings and start messing around with new methods of fingering the same old chords. It can open up whole worlds. Try out: Sawmill tuning (GDGD) Open G (GDGB) Irish tuning (GDAD)
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